California winter days at the beach are some of my favorite. You have the warm California sun plus consistent swell. Though the water is brisk, the crowds are lighter usually (for California summer standards) and that means more ocean to frolic around in without having to battle for waves. Also, you add all the potential danger factors of San Onofre (local great whites roaming, nuclear power plant and radioactive runoff, Army base and detonating bombs in the nearby hills…true, but a bit sensationalistic) into the equation you have a day that is going to be unique.
Plus, my good friend Tim also got to log in his first surf session ever! I was quite impressed with how he handled the surfing learning curve. Chelsea (good friend and local SanO surfer) and I helped Tim to navigate through the whitewash, and also pushed him a few waves. He was a fast learner and eventually was paddling into some waves on his own. He even dropped in on me (breaking surfing etiquette 101) on one wave, but I was stoked (“extremely exhilarated” in land-lover terms) to have shared that wave with Tim and to see the smile on his face.
After getting a healthy daily dose of Vitamin D and an invigorating full body workout we had to refuel with some mandatory post “surf sesh” Mexican food. No proper San Onofre surf session is complete without tacos, burritos, and some crunchy sand in your ears and toes. Definitely a classic Californian day to be remembered and also one hoped to be revisited sometime soon.
Keep surfing the waves of Grace!